Little known in the United States, Valcalepio is a wonderful wine growing area in the province of Bergamo, Lombardia, Italy. I have a special reason for loving the enchanting city of Bergamo which has existed since 49 B.C. but I will tell you that story further on.
First I would like to talk about the wonderful wines I tasted this past week at an event held at the fabulous Enoteca DiPalo on Grand Street in New York City where we enjoyed some of the perfect wines of Cantina Sociale Bergamasca in the DOC zone called Valcalepio.
The charming and engaging wine-maker Vanessa Verdoni along with her fellow wine-maker the accomplished Emanuele Medelago Albani presented these very applaudable wines which we hope will soon be coming to the NY area.
Let me tell you about them...
The most outstanding were a “Bordeaux- style” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, called Valcalepio Rosso and a Valcalepio Bianco, a blend of Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. I was surprised to learn that French grapes have been grown in the region for centuries.
We tasted five wines altogether. I was very happy that to compliment the wine with food, something that we know is essential to Italian wine enjoyment, Lou DiPalo of Di Palo Selects next door, served some very delicious dishes of the region. Lombardia is famous for its cuisine, especially polenta dishes, aged hams and famous cheeses like Grana Padano and Taleggio.
My favorite red wine of the evening was Bergamasca IGT Merlot 2009 which tasted like no Merlot I have ever had before. Yes the flavor of the Merlot grape was there but in a much brighter and more delightful way.The wine"is made to exalt the fruit characteristic of this grape variety." say the wine-makers who ferment "in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with a short maceration to extract colour and soft tannins and to preserve the fruity perfume." They then let the wine spend a relatively long time on the lees prior to bottling, and remain 3 months in the bottle before release." Patience is a virtue every great wine-maker must possess.
The result is a wine with vibrant color with very present cherry blossoms and blackberry aromas and very lively flavor that is completely fulfilling for a medium bodied wine. The tannins are silky and a long finish that will persist with whatever food you may pair it with.
Bordeaux-style wine fans will find much to love in the two other reds.
Valcalepio DOC Rosso 2008 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, "The wine has a dark ruby color, an elegant and mature nose, well balanced and integrated with aromas of ripe plum, cherry, herbs and spicy notes on the nose. On the palate, it showcases the complex aromas of blueberry, cherry and spice from the Merlot grape and the long-lasting and cassis flavours added by the Cabernet Sauvignon. Is has elegant and silky tannins and ample acidity for further aging"
Akros Valcalepio DOC Rosso Riserva 2005 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, "Only the best grapes are used to make this wine.The wine is dark ruby in color with definite garnet tints around the edges. There is plenty of fruit with aromas of blueberry and candied cherry that mingle with hints of oak, vanilla and herbs. Combining power and finesse from ripe fruit and oak ageing, the palate offers ample acidity with spicy berry flavours and a mature finish. This wine pairs well with meats, game and aged cheeses."
I am not a huge fan of Bordeaux red wine but I do love white wine and was very very pleased with the two whites we tasted. They brought back sweet memories of a rapturous dinner we had in Bergamo in 1985 at Hotel Agnello D'oro a 17th century inn found in the heart of the Bergamo old city. It was our first trip to Italy so every moment was exciting. We had arrived in Bergamo on the second evening of our trip after flying into Milan. After wandering the
enchanting ancient streets of the city we settled in for our first real Italian dinner.
Sure we had eaten a lot of Italian food in the States, but nothing like this. I remember quail over polenta and an then exotic pasta dish. We had red and white wines, the whites were most striking. They may have been from the growers of Cantina Sociale Bergamasca who have been producing wine since 1960.
Wherever ever we went through out Italy we always just asked for "vino locale" "bianco" or "rosso." It was always good. I remember one place in Firenze that was up in the hills that overlooked the Arno. They poured their Chianti from a big jug into straw covered bottles at the table and charged by the inch.
Of the white wines we tasted this past night I loved the Valcalepio DOC Bianco 2009 of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Bianco, 30% Pinot Grigio. These grapes have been grown in the region for centuries and the are still hand harvested from vines that have been cropped significantly to yield the very best fruit. The grapes are crushed, pressed and immediately chilled then left to settle naturally to retain their freshness and subtle perfumes. A smart technique is then used as the three varieties of grape are vinified separately preserving each grapes integrity. After fermentation they are blended and again left to transform naturally on the lees prior to bottling.
This wine has a deep golden color and is richly full flavored and pleasantly aromatic. The skill of the wine-makers and dedication of the grape growers is apparent in the deep complex savoury dry and pleasing fruit flavors on the palate and a the clean, spicy, long finish.
I also really loved the Bergamasca IGT Pinot Bianco 2009, The wine started off with bright lemon scents and abundant green apple flavors and then morphed into deeper peach apricot flavors that were followed by a touch of almond as it opened up and got a little warmer. "
Bright light straw yellow colour, lightly floral on the nose, with perfumes reminiscent of almond blossom. The attractive crisp green apple fruit on the palate gives way to a fresh, zingy finish. Although this is a simple everyday wine it is very drinkable and has remarkably good length with long lasting hints of orange zest. Excellent as an aperitif, It also goes well with seafood salads and fish-based pasta, rise and soups. it’s also excellent with white meats and fish." Wine-maker
Cantina Sociale Bergamasca is a co-operative winery located in San Paolo d’Argon between Lake Como and Lake Iseo in the province of Bergamo, in the region of Lombardy, The Valcalepio vine-growing history goes back to the Roman times.
The region of Lomardia is rich with cultural, travel, food and wine opportunities. Milan is a beautiful city to visit. See the film I am Love. Lake Como and Lake Garda should not be missed and there is so much more.
"The traveler should not make the mistake of thinking that a visit to Milano is a visit to Lombardia. There is much to see and do outside the metropolis" ... the entire region is "historically, culturally, socially, spiritually, artistically, politically educationally, architecturally, anthropologically, recreationally, and gastronomically...a feast to the mind and senses." Italian Visits
Visit www.buonalombardia.it and www.turismo.lombardia.it.
