So what is terrior and why should you care? Well, I learned at a tasting this past week that there may be no one who knows the answer to this question better than the wine makers of the seven Frescobaldi estates in Tuscany. You see they go out of their way to plant and nurture in hard to farm places just to get the best terrior.
In case you are wondering, terrior is the characteristics of the land, micro-climate and topography of where wine is made. Using another word, it is nature. It also encompasses I believe certain human intervention like pruning, trellising or grape selection. It is really what makes a particular wine great.
If you think back to best, most memorable, happily unique wines you have enjoyed, they were that good because of their terroir and how the winemaker embraced it. Think nice juicy heirloom tomato from a local farmer vs. those funny red slabs you get at a diner from some tomato factory farm god knows where. Get the picture?
You see, in this world of globalization and mass production many wine makers ignore the terrior and lean on technology the result is wine that is acceptable, or bad, but is generic, boring, with no real personality.
This is not the case with Marchesi de' Frescobaldi, one Italy's most prolific producers.
Frescobaldi makes many wines in the premium and ultra premium categories but they also produce many great wines priced for everyday enjoyment, for the rest of their mission statement is "and reflecting the taste and expectations of the market as well as its demands for natural and accessible wines."
Regardless of the category their commitment to quality wines that are true to their place is the same. A commitment that the Frescobaldi family has maintained for over 700 years.
With Alessandro Lunardi, Director of the Frescobaldi US Market, we tasted four of these everyday wines. He shared many insights and anecdotes that gave these wines a life of their own. Each one was exquisite. They included Attems Pinot Grigio, Remole Toscana, Nipozzano Chianti Rufina and Tenuta Frescobaldi de' Castiglioni.
My favorite was the Nipozzano Chianti Rufina. The name comes from the original description of area, Ni Pozzano which translates to "no pool or puddle." It is an area where it is actually very hard to grow wine grapes. But, the soil is rich in clay and limestone, it is dry, and very breezy. An ideal terrior for growing grapes that will make elegant ageable wines.
The grapes, their vines and roots have to work very hard to ripen and this leads to lush full fruit. We enjoyed the 2006 vintage last August with a homemade pasta Bolognese. The 2007 which we tasted this night is even better.
Everyone agreed that this wine, that sells for $16-$20, drinks like a more expensive bottle. Which proves efforts to gain from rather than withdraw from the challenges of a region are deeply rewarding. The critics agree and Nipozzano Chinati Rufina is consistently awarded 90+ points.
This Chianti would pair well with roasted meats and deep sauces.
Another wonderful wine we tasted was the Remole, a great value that can be found for as little $8 to $10. The sophisticated and tenured tasters at this event all agreed that this was an exceptional wine. It comes from central Tuscany and is of the fruit not selected for higher level wines, but is made with the same skill and integrity as Frescobaldi's finer wines. It was interesting hearing Allesandro's stories of the picking process. You could practically see the pickers as they worked. Their heart and soul engaged.
"Remole 2008 greets the eye with a deep, brilliant purple hue. The dense bouquet offers complex fruit aromas, such as blackberry, raspberry, cherry, and red currant, lifted with fragrant hints of spice and black pepper. The well-balanced palate is velvety smooth, very warm and rich, with a refreshing crispness. The long-lingering finish nicely mirrors the fruit on the nose" Frescobaldi Ratings & Reviews 2007 Vintage 86 points - Wine Spectator, 2004 Vintage Wine News 88 points 2003 Vintage 86 points / Best Buy - Wine Enthusiast.
What makes this inexpensive wine so great? It s not mass produced. Each grape is grown in away to get the most from nature.
Its light open character allows it to pair well with almost any food.
The last red wine Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni is a deeper richer wine. Some might call it a "Super Tuscan" with its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and small part of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. To my palate it is like a Bordeaux style wine. But as I have said the unique terrior of the Tenuta di Castiglioni estate makes this wine unique. The vineyard is in a zone called Chianti Colli Fiorentini, in the Montespertoli area, which has a warm, dry climate, land and topology like no other place in the world.
When it comes to pruning, the winemakers are gentle,seeking to not traumatize the fruit. Trellising is rarely used as it tends to cause over production, grape selection is dictated by Italian laws.
This wine pairs well with game such as hare and boar, with roasted or sauteed beef, roast of pork, as well as with full-flavored cheeses.
"Frescobaldi a Family of Wine Estates. Each estate is a unique expression of its local terroir. Each has its individual identity, history, and personality, but they all share a common spirit and a common goal."
"The Frescobaldi history begins around the year 1000, when the first members of the family moved to Florence from the Val di Pesa area, more precisely from Castillione Vallis Pesae, now called Castiglioni. After settling in the Oltrarno section of the city, they built the lodge and the tower that still stand next to the building, in the Piazza de’ Frescobaldi. Some members of the family devoted themselves to banking, and immediately joined city guilds, the guild of bankers, wool merchants, and silk weavers, all of them among the “Major Guilds”; the seven most important guilds." Frescobaldi
At the beginning of the tasting we tried a Pinot Grigio called Attems. This one really took me by surprise. I have been hard on Pino Grigio lately, so much of it I think is boring, there are so many other great white wines to try. In fact I am in the midst of writing a new article on the good Pinot Grigios. There are very good ones, like this wine that Wine Spectator included in theTop 100 Wines of 2010. 91 points Wine Spectator: "Pineapple pie, with vanilla cream and honey on the nose. Full body, with a very ripe, almost decadent tropical fruit character. Lots of rich fruit. Drink now. This is always an excellent Pinot Grigio for the money. Sells for $15-$20
What makes it different? The terrior and the way the wine makers embrace it of course.
"The world-famous Attems wines are grown in Italy's renowned Collio DOC in the northeastern part of the country, bordered by the Alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south. This geography creates a temperate microclimate, and the region's marl and sandstone soils make it perfect for Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as for the native Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano that have been harvested here since at least as early as the 18th century. The Attems family winemaking lineage dates back nearly a millennium. In 1106, records show that the Bishop of Salisbury gave them the estate for the purpose of cultivating vineyards and making wine.
After 900 years of wine production, Attems aligned with the renowned Marchesi de' Frescobaldi, one of Italy's most revered wine families. Douglas Attems and the Frescobaldi family celebrate a legacy of friendship founded during their years as students at the University of Florence. The partnership understands that a wine's quality and personality reflect the land it comes from, and they have pledged to further enhance the vines at Collio. Together they have committed to innovative vineyard development and to strategic participation in the global market. ." Wine.com
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